Washing of garments, done in-house, from acid-wash to raw denim fade
The washing of garments is where your regular off-the-shelf hoodie or a pair of jeans becomes what you really want in a product. We perform our four different kinds of washes in-house at our plant in Dongguan, with no outsourcing to a laundry service elsewhere in town, so you get the same wash approved on samples on the bulk order.
Why we kept garment washing in-house
Control over the least predictable stepThere is an increased possibility of error when garment washing is outsourced, since the washed garments could have the wrong color tone, the wrong placement of distressing, or simply be delayed since the laundry had prioritized washing other people's orders ahead of ours. Garment washing in-house was a purposeful decision since the group of people who would be washing the garment is the one that sewed it, thereby reducing chances of miscommunication regarding the garment's color and texture.
Another reason why we continued to handle the washing in-house is that it reduces the feedback loop since we will be able to redo the washing if the wash-down sample has either too little or too much weight without going through the hassle of delivering a garment to another person's laundry and waiting for them to do the washing according to their schedule.
Four techniques, one wash floor
Pick a process belowMatching a Wash to a Reference Garment
No guessing from a photoThe wording in the tech pack of a wash – “medium acid wash” or “light distressing” – will be interpreted differently by every single factory reading it. Hence, whenever the buyer has an exact picture in his head, we request him to have the physical reference garment rather than sending photos or swatches of colors. Photos strip away the material's texture, whereas a garment provides more information.
After this, it only takes a small step to achieve what we need. Our wash team conducts a trial wash against the reference, and we return wash-down samples next to a photo of the reference for easy comparison. Once the sample is approved, it will become the benchmark for the bulk wash run – not the original wording of the tech pack. This is the one thing that will determine the success of your wash process in just one try.
Effects of washing on the garment
Weight, size and hand-feel all moveThe act of washing changes the garment from its initial state in various ways that require proper planning in advance rather than finding solutions when already done. The effect of acid wash and snow wash involves the use of a rough medium in the form of either pumice stone or man-made pumice stone, which is used to rub against the fabric in order to create contrast through the uneven breaking down of the dyed parts. This makes the hand-feel of the fabric softer, but also reduces the GSM of the fabric by 3-8% and shrinks it further by 2-4%.
Distressing is a process whereby the roughening is focused on specific areas by means of such methods as sanding, whiskering, and targeted tearing. On the other hand, raw denim fading involves no wash at all, but instead allows fading through the movements of the wearer. The aim of selling raw denim is just this very purpose.
To allow for the above changes, we make sure we confirm the measurements of the garments from the approved wash sample, and not the cut panel as originally planned. It is a little more work in terms of time, but it saves a lot of time by avoiding having to correct the size grading of the entire size run.
Quality Control and Wastewater Compliance
Checked before it leaves the wash floorEvery batch of washed products is verified to conform to the accepted reference in terms of shade and hand feel, and, in the case of distressed products, the placement of the wear marks is done correctly before going through the standard AQL 2.5/4.0 pre-shipment inspection. A washed product that has passed the stitching inspection on AQL level but failed on the shade is retained, not dispatched, with a note.
The wash wastewater is being treated on site before being released in accordance with ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines — This is an industry-wide standard for the quality of wastewater in the textile, apparel, and footwear industry wet processing. This is not a mandatory requirement in every country we deliver our products to, but this is what the majority of our European and American customers would expect from us anyway.
Where washing comes into play in our range of products
See it on the garmentGarment washing runs across both our hoodie manufacturing ine — acid-washed, snow-washed, and vintage-washed hoodies are all processed on this very wash floor — and our jeans manufacturing line, where acid-washed, distressed, and raw selvedge denim garments are all processed using the same machinery and quality control process detailed above. If you already have the garment in mind, this is the quicker route to take in creating your spec.
Frequently asked questions
Garment washing, straight answersWhat garment washing techniques does FORGEMFG run in-house?
Can you match a wash from a reference garment I send?
How long does a wash cycle add to production time?
Does washing affect fabric weight and sizing?
How is wash quality checked before shipping?
Is your wastewater from washing treated before discharge?
Got a reference garment?
Ship the sample. We'll match the wash.
Send a physical reference or a clear description of the finish you're after and we'll come back with a feasibility check and cost estimate within 2 business days.
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