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streetwearoem.com

OEM Garment Decoration

Custom Screen Printing for Streetwear Brands

FORGEMFG provides custom screen printing for private-label streetwear, including T-shirts, hoodies and washed garments. We offer plastisol, water-based and discharge printing, with a standard minimum order of 50 pieces per style and colorway, subject to artwork, fabric and print-feasibility approval.

Send the artwork file, intended print size, placement, garment fabric and estimated quantity at the inquiry stage. Conventional spot-color artwork normally requires a separate screen for each ink color, so color count is a major setup and pricing factor. Fabric, print area, ink system, garment construction and testing requirements can also affect feasibility, cost and lead time.

3 ink systems Per-color screens Compliance documents on request Pre-production approval
Screen print station running mid-production on the factory floor
3Ink systems — plastisol, water-based, discharge
InkTDSCure profile verified by ink system
50pcMOQ / style / colorway
7–15dSampling turnaround
2.5/4.0Major / minor defect AQL target

What is screen printing?

Direct definition

Screen printing, also called silkscreen printing, transfers ink through a stencil held in a fine mesh screen. A squeegee draws ink across the screen so it passes through the open areas and onto the garment. Conventional spot-color artwork normally uses one screen per ink color; process and simulated-process work use more complex separations to reproduce tonal artwork.

The finished hand-feel depends on the ink system and deposit. Plastisol generally creates a more noticeable ink layer, while water-based and discharge systems can produce a softer finish. Spot colors can be matched to an agreed Pantone reference or physical swatch and confirmed on a printed strike-off because ink appearance changes with fabric color, texture and lighting.

How the process works, step by step

Art to pre-shipment QC
01

Art & color separation

Artwork is separated into one flat color per screen. A five-color logo needs five screens, five squeegee passes, and five registration checks to land every layer in the same spot. Gradients and photographic detail are converted to halftone dots rather than printed as continuous tone.

02

Screen & mesh setup

Each screen is coated with photo-emulsion, exposed with the separated artwork, and washed out to leave an open stencil. Mesh count is matched to the ink and the level of detail: a coarser mesh moves more ink for solid coverage on dark shirts, while a finer mesh holds crisp small text and halftones without flooding the design.

03

Press setup & registration

Screens are loaded onto a carousel press and aligned pass by pass until every color lands on register. This is checked against the approved sample before a single production piece runs, not adjusted mid-batch. Registration tolerance is held tighter on multi-color artwork with fine outlines than on a bold single-color logo, since a small shift is far more visible where two ink layers meet.

04

Printing & curing

Ink is printed through each screen in sequence, with flash curing between colors when the artwork requires it. The completed garment then passes through a drying tunnel. Cure time and temperature follow the selected ink manufacturer's technical data sheet; many conventional plastisol systems cure near 320°F (160°C), while low-cure and specialty inks use different profiles. The target temperature must be achieved through the ink film, not merely shown on the dryer display.

05

QC & packing

Printed pieces are checked against the approved sample for registration, placement, ink coverage and color appearance. The finished order then undergoes the agreed pre-shipment sampling inspection. Where specified, AQL 2.5 applies to major defects and AQL 4.0 to minor defects; wash durability and colorfastness are separate tests rather than part of a visual AQL check.

Carousel press loaded with multiple ink colors mid-run

Ink types we print with

Matched to fabric & finish

Which ink makes sense depends on the fabric, the base color, and how the finished print is meant to feel. We run three ink systems, summarized below.

Ink type Best for Hand-feel Fabric compatibility Limitation
Plastisol Bold graphics, spot color, dark garments Slightly raised, opaque Cotton and many cotton blends; polyester, nylon and performance fabrics require compatible ink and testing Large or heavy deposits can feel stiff; some synthetics need low-cure ink, blockers or additives
Water-based Soft-hand prints, lighter garments, vintage look Soaks in, almost no hand Best on absorbent natural fibers; fabric-specific systems are needed for many synthetics Standard formulas have lower opacity; high-solids systems and underbases can support dark garments
Discharge Soft, faded vintage prints on dark cotton Very soft — removes or alters the garment dye and may deposit replacement pigment Best on suitably reactive-dyed cotton; every color and dye lot requires testing Results vary on non-dischargeable dyes, pigment-dyed fabric and polyester blends

A related option some buyers ask for by name is a crack print or vintage print finish: plastisol ink applied thin and cured so it develops a deliberately cracked, worn-in texture, usually paired with a vintage or distressed wash program rather than a clean, fresh garment.

Vintage-wash t-shirt with a deliberately cracked screen print finish

Screen printing specifications

What to send for review

A reliable quotation needs more than a logo. Send the final artwork, garment type, fabric composition, garment color, print placement, finished print dimensions and quantity by size and colorway. We use those details to confirm the required screens, ink system, sample route and production feasibility.

Specification Standard guidance What can change it
Minimum order 50 pieces per style and colorway Artwork, fabric, garment construction and print placement
Artwork Vector artwork preferred; supply fonts as outlines and identify spot colors Raster, halftone and photographic artwork may require separation work
Color approval Agreed Pantone reference or physical swatch, confirmed on a strike-off Fabric color, texture, ink opacity and viewing light
Sampling Typical target: 7–15 days after complete artwork and material confirmation Fabric availability, color count, specialty ink and revision rounds
Bulk production Confirmed after sample approval and order review Order size, material sourcing, testing and finishing requirements

Maximum color count, print area and placement depend on the press, garment panel and artwork. We confirm those limits from the actual production file rather than publishing a universal maximum that may not apply to every garment.

What drives cost and turnaround

Screen printing pricing follows the number of screens, not the number of pieces. Every additional color in a design means another screen, another pass on press, and another registration check, so a one-color logo and a five-color graphic are functionally different jobs even at the same quantity. This is the main reason a design gets simplified or a color gets dropped during the feasibility stage — not to cut corners, but because reducing screen count is usually the single biggest lever on unit price.

For repeat orders, we retain approved artwork, color references, ink information and production notes. Physical screens may be reclaimed and need to be remade, so setup charges, strike-off approval and lead time are confirmed case by case. A repeat order does not automatically bypass material, color or quality checks.

For blank garment options, exact MOQ, and current pricing tiers by color count, see our screen print t-shirts ordering page — this page covers the process, not the price list.

Durability & wash care

What to check on a sample

Screen-print durability depends on ink selection, fabric, pretreatment, deposit thickness and the verified cure profile. Plastisol generally forms a durable film on the fabric surface. Water-based ink penetrates the fibers more deeply, while discharge ink alters the garment dye and may add replacement pigment. These systems produce different hand-feel and aging characteristics, so the approved sample should be evaluated using the intended care conditions.

Visual pre-shipment inspection checks placement, registration, coverage and appearance. When wash durability or colorfastness is part of the agreed testing protocol, it is tested separately using the specified method. For routine care, wash the garment inside out, follow its care label, avoid ironing directly over the print and use low dryer heat when tumble drying is permitted.

Carousel screen printing press and drying tunnel in the print room

Color limitations, and when digital printing fits better

Conventional spot-color screen printing is strongest on logos, type and graphic artwork with a defined color count. Each added spot color normally requires another screen, press station and registration step. Halftone, process-color and simulated-process separations can reproduce gradients and photographic detail, but they require artwork review, controlled separations and additional setup.

DTG or DTF may be more practical for high-color or photographic artwork, personalized pieces and very small runs where separate screen setup is inefficient. The best method depends on fabric, quantity, artwork, hand-feel, durability target and budget; digital printing is not automatically less durable in every application. Many streetwear collections use more than one decoration method.

Screen printing on washed & garment-dyed pieces

For most finished washed or garment-dyed programs, printing is completed after the garment reaches its final dimensions and surface texture. If the design is intended to age together with a vintage wash, printing may occur earlier in the sequence. We confirm the order of operations during sampling because dye chemistry, shrinkage, abrasion and heat exposure can change the final print.

Frequently asked questions

What ink types does FORGEMFG use for screen printing?
Three ink systems: plastisol for bold, opaque spot-color graphics; water-based for a softer hand-feel on lighter garments; and discharge for a faded, vintage look on reactive-dyed 100% cotton. Ink choice is matched to the fabric and the finished look the buyer wants, not fixed to one default.
How many colors can be screen printed on one design?
There's no fixed maximum, but each color needs its own screen and pass on press, so cost and turnaround scale with color count. Most streetwear graphics run one to six colors; beyond that, simulated process printing or switching to digital printing becomes worth comparing on cost.
Is screen printing more durable than DTG or DTF?
A correctly matched and cured plastisol print can provide strong wash durability, but no method is automatically the most durable in every application. Fabric, pretreatment, ink or film system, curing and garment care all affect performance. DTG or DTF may be more practical for high-color, photographic, personalized or very small runs where separate screens would be inefficient.
Can screen printing be done on garment-dyed or washed fabric?
Yes. For most programs, printing is applied after washing and drying so placement is set on the finished garment. Some vintage effects intentionally print before washing so the graphic ages with the garment. The sequence is confirmed through sampling.
What's the minimum order quantity for screen printing?
The standard starting MOQ is 50 pieces per style and colorway, subject to artwork, fabric, garment construction and print-feasibility review. Full pricing tiers and garment options are covered on the screen print T-shirts ordering page.
Are the inks used safe and compliant for import into the US and EU?
Compliance depends on the selected ink, garment components, destination market and required test scope. Relevant supplier declarations, test reports or factory documents can be provided for review when available. OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 applies only to articles and components covered by a valid certificate; ask us to confirm the certificate holder, number, validity and scope for your order.
What artwork should I send for a screen-printing quote?
Vector AI, EPS or editable PDF artwork is preferred, with fonts converted to outlines and spot colors identified. Also provide the finished print size, placement, garment color, fabric composition and order quantity. Raster or photographic artwork can be reviewed for halftone or simulated-process separation.
How long do sampling and bulk production take?
Sampling typically targets 7–15 days after complete artwork and material confirmation. Bulk lead time is quoted after sample approval and order review because fabric sourcing, quantity, color count, specialty inks, testing and finishing can change the schedule.

Ready when you are

Have artwork ready? Start with a quote.

Feasibility check and cost estimate within 2 business days. Send your design file and color count and we'll confirm screen count and turnaround.

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